Types of Windows: All 15 Styles Compared (Costs, Pros & Cons)

The 15 window styles compared at a glance

Cost ranges below are national installed estimates (window plus labor) drawn from public contractor averages and manufacturer price guides — see our window replacement cost guide for the full cost breakdown. Actual pricing varies by market, size, frame material (vinyl, fiberglass, wood, aluminum), and glass package (double-pane vs. triple-pane matters as much as style).

Energy ratings reflect how tightly each style seals — compression-seal styles (casement, awning, hopper, picture) generally beat sliding-seal styles on air infiltration.

Operable windows (open for ventilation)

Double-hung — Both sashes slide and most tilt inward for easy cleaning — the most popular style in North America because it fits any room and vents safely from the top on upper floors. Cons: two sliding seals mean slightly more air infiltration than compression styles.

Single-hung — Identical look to double-hung, but only the bottom sash moves. The fixed top sash lowers cost and removes one air-leak point. Cons: the top pane doesn't open, so cleaning it from outside is harder on upper floors.

Casement — Hinged on the side and cranked open like a door, so the full opening ventilates and the sash presses tight against the frame when closed — one of the best-sealing, most energy-efficient operable styles (see our full casement vs. double-hung comparison). Cons: cranks wear over time; the sash projects outward.

Awning — Hinged at the top and swings out from the bottom, so it can stay open during light rain. Ideal above sinks, in bathrooms, or paired with picture windows. Cons: limited to smaller sizes and projects into walkways.

Sliding — One or more sashes glide horizontally on a track — perfect for wide, short openings and rooms facing decks or patios. Cons: sliding seals leak more air, and tracks collect dirt.

Hopper — Hinged at the bottom and tilts inward from the top — the inverse of an awning, common in basements and small bathrooms. Cons: the open sash intrudes into the room and sizes are limited.

Jalousie — Parallel glass slats that pivot together like blinds for maximum airflow. Best on porches and in warm, mild climates. Cons: poor energy efficiency and security — rarely right for cold climates.

Fixed & specialty windows

Picture window — A large, non-opening pane that delivers unobstructed views and the best energy efficiency of any style (no moving parts to leak). Best for great rooms, stairwells, and framing a view.

Glass block — Stacked, mortared glass blocks that add light and privacy while resisting break-ins and moisture. Common in basements and bathroom walls.

Bay window — Three panels projecting outward at angles (a fixed center flanked by two operable units), creating an interior shelf or seat and pulling in light from three directions.

Bow window — Four or more panels curved in a gentle arc for a panoramic, rounded projection. More glass and labor than a bay, so it sits at the top of the cost range.

Garden window — A small box that projects outward like a mini greenhouse — ideal over a kitchen sink for herbs and plants.

Transom window — A short decorative or venting window installed above a door or another window to add daylight and height.

Skylight — A window set into the roof to flood dark rooms with daylight; available fixed or vented. Installation is more complex due to roof structure and flashing.

Egress window — A code-required exit window (common in finished basements and bedrooms) sized large enough for a person to escape a fire. Usually a casement, hopper, or sliding unit meeting minimum opening dimensions; basement installs often add an exterior window well.

Which window is right for me?

• Need the most ventilation? Choose casement or jalousie (mild climates only).
• Want the best energy efficiency? Pick a picture, casement, awning, or hopper — all seal by compression. Then compare glass and frame options in our energy-efficient windows guide.
• On a budget? Single-hung and hopper deliver the lowest installed cost.
• Finishing a basement? Code likely requires an egress window; pair with hopper or glass block for the rest.
• Wide opening or patio-facing wall? A sliding window fits best and costs less than casements at large sizes.
• Want architecture and resale appeal? A bay or bow window makes the biggest visual statement.
• Dark interior room or attic? Add a skylight or transom for borrowed light.

Pro tip from our network contractors

Most homes use a mix of styles — double-hung in bedrooms, casement over the kitchen sink, a picture window in the living room, and hopper or egress units below grade. A good installer will help you match the style to each opening.

The prices above are national estimates — the only way to know your real number is a local quote, and comparing two or three bids side by side is the fastest way to see how each style prices out in your market. For a full walkthrough of frame materials, glass packages, and vetting installers, see how to choose replacement windows.